FAQ

• Individual walks in and we ask what are they interested in cats/dogs
• We put them in an adoption room with animal of interest; provide all the information on that animal so they are well informed to make the best decision for themselves and the pet.
• If it’s a good fit, they fill out the adoption contract, pay the fee (check, cash or card) and the animal goes home with them immediately.

Our trained Adoption Counselors will greet you and work with you and will work with you one-on-one to find the best fit. Come prepared to take "test drive walks" with candidates. Our team will carefully introduce candidates to your children and other pets to observe interaction to find the responsible lifetime match. SPCA of South West Michigan has multiple off leash play areas to fully test all candidates to help you find the next love of your life.

Dogs/cats are clever and they are fantastic athletes. Make sure all gates, doors and fencing are in good working order. Repair and secure all before you bring your new dog home.

Dogs/cats have been known to open gate latches. Secure with clip locks. Dogs/cats can let themselves out of yards if a fence is in disrepair or has low or weak spots. You do not want your new Dog/cat lost or injured before they become accustomed to your home.  Do a thorough once over to make sure your Dog/cat will be safe and secure in your home & yard.

Every dog/cat adopted from SPCA of South West Michigan will come with records of sterility, vaccinations, microchip registration form.  Here are the basics you will need to have on hand for your newly adopted dogs/cats.

• 6-foot sturdy leash
• ID Tag with your contact Info: can get at any local pet store tag engraving machine
• Food bowl
• Water bowl
• Dog/cat bed
• Wire crate (optional but the best tool for housebreaking and preventing anxiety)
• Dog/cat Food: the best food you can afford to feed your dog/cat is the best investment in their health
• Commitment: above all you need to commit to helping your newly adopted dog/cat adjust their new life which can take time. SPCA of South West Michigan is there to help you every step of the way.
• Get your dog licensed. Call Kalamazoo Animal Control to schedule appointment at 269-383-8775

Cat Supplies:

• Litter
• Litter pan
• Cat toys; catnip;
• Cat tower/post
• scratching post or pad
• Window Perch (optional)
• Cat Carrier
• Litter Scoop
• Cat Brush
• Cat Bed

With so many great pet stores offering a wide variety of top quality food, it's really your choice, and what you new dog will eat. Sometimes in the beginning it might be trial and error so perhaps small bags to start with until your find the right one.  Some good brands include Zignature, Merrick, Wellness, Royal Canine, Taste of The Wild and Kirkland brand.

We may not be able to narrow down what quality food is best for your new dog/cat but we can certainly tell you what foods NOT TO FEED a dog/cat.  Do not feed any brands available in a grocery store (Purina, Pedigree, Beniful etc.) These low-grade foods are over processed, filled with fillers like corn, preservatives and toxins which are very problematic for dogs.

For Cats: Try to avoid foods that contain “Red Dye” in the ingredients. (Examples: Meow Mix, Kit N’ Kaboodle, etc)

Dogs/cats LOVE their human family. Your new dog/cat should sleep inside the house preferably in the same room as a family member, especially at first.  Do not expect your dog/cat to sleep in a remote room such as kitchen or laundry room which makes your new dog/cat feel isolated rather than included. A crate in your bedroom is a great integration tool helping your dog/cat feel safe, avoid accidents, and prevent anxiety.

Cats would do best in a small room with all of their needs (water, food, litter, toys) available to them for a few days to get acclimated. Visit them in their safe room and let them come to you, do not chase or force them to come to you.

SPCA of South West Michigan will help select the best candidate to fit your life and all in it. If your home includes other dogs, cats or kids of any age it is best to be prepared to follow integration guidelines to ensure the best chance for full integration and a happy life together.  It can sometimes take time and effort, but the end results are unconditional love for a lifetime. GO SLOW, TAKE TIME. Knowing what steps to follow and more importantly what NOT to do will help everyone.  Click appropriate links for successful integration tips that apply to you. Be prepared by educating yourself on what will work.

If you have another dog at home If you have a cat at home If you have kids at home

The simple answer to this question is to integrate your dog/cat by following SPCA of South West Michigan take home instruction and taking things in baby steps. Your new dog/cat has a lot to learn and get used to. Every home is different; every dog/cat is different. The most important thing to remember is that SPCA of South West Michigan is here to help you after adoption with advice and to answer questions to help your new dog/cat fully integrate.

We highly encourage meet n’ greets with your current pet with our shelter pet before adopting. Only exception we do not do meet and greets with cats and puppies.

Here are links of the most common questions people have when bringing home a new dog/cat.

Housebreaking Leash Aggression Separation Anxiety

SPCA of South West Michigan treats health issues that are apparent when dogs/cats arrive or conditions that develop during their time at our facility. Owner surrenders to SPCA of South West Michigan often come with their medical history and records. Dogs/cats that we pull from city shelters often come without much history and we must evaluate visually from experience.  SPCA of South West Michigan will always divulge any conditions that are known and treatment protocols.  We partner with quality vets for the very best for dogs/cats in our care. 

Please be aware that there can be a very common temporary condition that affects many dogs/cats in communal living environments: kennels, boarding facilities, etc.  Kennel Cough and Diarrhea/Giardia are easily spread but also easily treated. Your new dog/cat may or may not have been exposed so please take a moment to familiarize yourself with these common and very treatable temporary conditions.

Make sure your resident dog/cat is current with shots, especially bortatella before visiting SPCA of South West Michigan.

Common Heath Issues

Kennel Cough

We are fortunate to have adopters come from all corners of Michigan and surrounding states to work with our team to adopt the perfect dog/cat for them.  No matter where you live, our policy is that all parties (human and pets) must come to meet adoption candidates in person. This is the only way to observe the interaction and ensure a responsible lifetime match. Should the adoption not be for life, the dog/cat must be returned to our facility. Out of town adoptions are fine as long as you travel to us to adopt and commit to return if need be.

All of our animals food is donated, so they are not on any specific brand of food. Once you adopt and get them on a particular brand you prefer, it is common for them to have digestive upset during the food transition.

A Guide to Cat Behaviour

Learn more about cats and common cat behaviours by browsing the sections below, featuring:

• Scratching
• Claw Trimming
• Don’t Declaw
• Preventing Other Unwanted Behaviours

Multi-Cat Families

• Multi-cat families have a hierarchical nature with “lower ranking” and “higher ranking” cats. In order to accommodate the different personalities, you should have multiple litter box locations so your lower ranking cats do not have to enter the territory of a more dominant cat.
• Remember: different cats prefer different types of litter. This means that in multi-cat families, you may have to provide a couple options.

Troubleshooting Litter Box Problems and Spraying Behaviour

• If your cat is having problems using the litter box, praise your cat and/or give the cat a treat when it uses the litter box appropriately.
• Soft, fluffy bedding such as quilts and duvets may be an attractive alternative to the litter box in the early weeks of settling in for a new cat. Scattered dirty laundry or laundry piles may also invite your cat to urinate/eliminate inappropriately. Remove and store these items or prevent access. Remember, new cats may be nervous or unfamiliar with their surroundings and kittens may simply forget the location or not have the bladder and/or bowel control to make it to the box.
• Soil at the base of potted plants can also look very inviting to cats. Cover the base with tinfoil or get rid of the plants if this becomes a problem.
• Strangers, babies, guests, new roommates, sudden schedule changes or other changes in the household may cause stress and therefore, inappropriate urination/elimination.
• New animals such as puppies/dogs, other cats, birds or any other species may cause territorial marking. Even the sight of another cat through a window may cause spraying.
• Previously sprayed/marked furniture can also attract new cats to spray (and leave their mark). The smell often remains for years. Consult a pet supply centre for effective cleaning products.
• Illnesses and health conditions such as urinary tract infections may also lead to inappropriate bathroom habits. Please consult your veterinarian immediately.
• If your vet determines that the inappropriate urination or elimination is behavioural, try using Dr. Elsey’s Cat Attract Litter or a different brand other than what you are currently using.

Scratching

Cats scratch to stretch, exercise specific shoulder and back muscles, express happiness and play, groom and mark territory. Scratching makes cats feel good and keeps their nails trimmed and free of old sheaths (layers). For cats, scratching is as natural as breathing air.

How to Promote Good Scratching Behaviour

• Cat claws grow just as your fingernails do and need regular trimming. Regular trimming of claws every 4 to 6 weeks keeps cats comfortable. Note: Only the clear hooked portion of each claw is trimmed.
• Provide at least one scratching post at least one metre in height. The taller, the better. Posts should be well constructed and placed near a sunny window or near places where your family gathers.
• A sprinkle of catnip at the base of the scratching post or a game wiggling a wand toy up the post will encourage use.
• Some cats prefer horizontal surfaces for scratching, such as a jute door mat or corrugated cardboard scratcher from a pet supply store.
• Use positive reinforcement. Reward your cat for good scratching behaviour with treats, affection and attention.

Troubleshooting Inappropriate Scratching Behaviour

If your cat is scratching inappropriate objects, there are a number of effective ways to prevent the behaviour.

• Place a scratching post / cat tree nearby. Young or old, most cats will learn how to use and love their scratching posts. In fact, large, multi-level posts will become your cat’s playground, bedroom, observation deck, tanning salon, couch and favourite hiding spot.
• Use double-sided tape to prevent scratching of furniture or limit access.
• Discipline with a spray water bottle, a loud noise or a firm ‘NO’.
• Another option for problem scratchers is a product called ‘Soft Paws’. Soft paws are acrylic claw covers that are applied with a non-toxic adhesive to the cats nails. Each application of ‘soft paw’ claw covers lasts about 2-3 months. Think of these like glue-on nails for cats.

How to Safely Trim Your Cat’s Claws

• Small commercially produced cat claw clippers (from your local pet store) or human fingernail clippers work well for trimming feline claws.
• To familiarize your kitten or cat with having its claws trimmed, begin by gently touching or stroking its paws without clipping.
• Always try to trim a cat’s claws when they are very relaxed or sleepy.
• To trim, hold the paw and gently press the toe pad to extend the claw. Trim the clear pointed hook end of the claw. Be careful not to cut into the pink area or ‘the quick’ found in the upper half of the claw as this will cause pain and bleeding.
• If the cat becomes impatient or restless, take a break. Sometimes you can only trim one or two claws per day, but the job will get done.
• Reward your cat with a treat to encourage his cooperation.
• If your cat does not cooperate, seek assistance from your veterinarian or an experienced cat groomer.
• Claws can be trimmed approximately every 4 to 6 weeks.

Don’t Declaw

As an animal rescue society and proponent of animal welfare, MEOW believes that declaw and tendonectomy surgeries are harmful, without benefit to cats and inhumane. All species are equal in their right to be treated with respect and compassion. It is also important for cat owners to understand the facts and health risks of declawing.

• A cat’s claw is NOT like a human fingernail. A claw is part of the last bone of the cat’s foot. To remove the claw, the bone, nerve, joint capsule, collateral ligaments and the extensor and flexor tendons are removed. Put simply, a declaw is an amputation. Declaw surgery is 10 amputations.
• A good comparison to a declaw would be cutting off a human finger at the last joint.
• Declaw and tendonechtomy surgeries can have many serious complications such as damage to the radial nerve, hemorrhage,  infection, excruciating phantom pain for life, chronic back, shoulder and joint pain (as previously used muscles weaken) and possible behavioural changes such as biting, social anxiety and litter box problems.
• Elective declaw surgeries are illegal in numerous regions of the world, including the United Kingdom, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, Denmark, Finland, Estonia, the Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, Germany, Switzerland, Brazil, Israel, France, Northern Ireland, Portugal and Belgium.

Other Unwanted Behaviours

Many cat owners may feel dismayed by a cat’s behaviour whether natural or just unwanted within the context of the home. These behaviours may range from jumping on counters to scratching furniture to inappropriate marking or aggression. To correct such behaviours, immediacy is the key. Discipline must be done at the moment of the unwanted behaviour or not at all. Spray water bottles, loud noises, firm ‘NOs’ or removing your cat from the situation are effective deterrents.

Pet owners should also be proactive in preventing problems. Cat proof your home and get to know your cat’s natural or normal patterns and behaviours within your home so you can better predict and avoid possible unwanted behaviours.

Remember: NEVER physically punish your cat. Behaviour modification or discipline is a form of love. Do it kindly and consistently. If you need advice, do not hesitate to speak with your veterinarian or request a referral to a certified animal behaviourist. Professionals can often offer a diagnosis and treatment plan for your pet.

Bringing Home a New Cat or Kitten

• General Tips
• How to Introduce Cats to Cats
• How to Introduce a Shy Cat Companion
• How to Introduce Cats to Dogs
• Tips for Kids

Whether you’re bringing home your first, second or fifth cat, it’s extremely important to prepare ahead of time. Before making the decision to add a new cat to your household, please consider the following:

• Is your home large enough for all cats to have adequate territory?
• Are any of your current cats (if relevant) suffering from a chronic illness where the added stress of a new cat may cause further health problems?
• Are any of your cats already suffering from behavioural issues such as inappropriate marking?

Once you’ve carefully considered all the above factors and are ready to add a new feline family member, the following sections will help ensure a smooth transition and integration with other family members and pets.

General Tips for Bringing a New Cat Home

• Prepare a safe room. A safe starter room or sanctuary for the new cat will provide the cat with the quiet and safety s/he needs while becoming familiar with the scents and sounds of your home. The starter room can be any size but must have a secure door and ceiling.
• Cat-proof the safe room. Check out our Cat Safety Tips and Escape Prevention sheet for more information.
• Give kitty a place to hide. New cats are often nervous and like to hide. Cardboard boxes or sheets draped over chairs make ideal hiding spots when you first bring kitty home. If you’ve adopted a shy cat, we recommend removing large items of furniture from the room, such as beds and dressers. It is much easier to interact with a cat hiding in a box than a cat hiding under a bed.
• Help your new cat get to know you. Place a t-shirt or a piece of your clothing that contains your scent in the safe room.
• Equip the safe room with cat food, water and litter. Place food and water on one side of the room and an open (unenclosed) litter box on the other side. Shyer cats may not eat much during the first 24 to 48 hours and may experience temporary diarrhea from stress. If your cat has not eaten in 48 hours, try some extra tasty treats such as canned tuna or salmon. If this is not successful, you may want to consult your veterinarian for advice.
• Give your new cat a new post. Put a new scratching post (at least one metre tall) inside the safe room. Scratching is a natural and comforting behaviour for cats. It’s also important that the scratching post is new and has not been used by other cats. Your new cat does not want to be stressed by the smells of other cats while s/he is first adapting to his or her new surroundings.
• Feliway saves the day. If your new cat is an adult, you can use a store-bought product called Feliway. Feliway imitates natural cat pheromones and helps a new cat feel more comfortable. Feliway comes in a spray and diffuser form.
• Give your cat some cat toys for entertainment. Provide toys such as mice and balls in the safe room for when you are not around.
• Spend time with your new cat. In the beginning, visit frequently for short periods of time. Visiting can mean interacting directly with the new cat in the form of play or petting, or quietly reading a book or chatting on the telephone in the same space as your new companion. Keep in mind that a nervous cat may growl, hiss, twitch its tails or pull its ears back. The best response is to speak softly followed by giving the cat some time alone.
• Transition beyond the safe room. When you and your new cat have established a trusting relationship, the cat is ready to begin exploring the house. Be sure to begin this process when you are home to supervise. Close most of the doors so the cat begins its orientation in stages. Too many new spaces at once can be stressful and frightening. If you’ve adopted a shy cat, be sure not let it in the basement for many weeks. Most basements have many hiding places—some inaccessible to humans.
• Ready to explore the roost. Remember, integration into the rest of the house is dependent on the personality of your new cat (as well as your existing pets). Sometimes the integration process can begin in just two to four days; however, sometimes it is best to wait a couple weeks. Shy cats in particular may need a longer integration period.

How to Introduce Cats to Cats

Phase 1 – Cat Smells Cat

• Successful introductions take time. DO NOT and we repeat DO NOT try to introduce the new addition to your resident cat(s) immediately upon arrival. You may damage the new relationship irreparably and initiate fear, anger, aggression, spraying and litter box problems in the new cat and/or resident cat(s). Successful introductions take time.
• Let the cats sniff out the situation. Let “smell” be the first introduction as the cats sniff each other from under the “safe room” door. Within two to four days, begin exchanging the bedding between the new and resident cat(s) daily. This helps familiarize the cats with each other’s scents.

Phase 2 – Cat Continues to Smell Cat

• Let the sniffing continue. If there are no marked signs of aggression from the cats, such as hissing and growling, the next step is to confine your resident cat to a room and let the new cat explore your house for a couple of hours each day for several days.

Phase 3 – Cat Sees Cat

• Organize a carrier meeting. Place your new cat in a carrier and put the carrier in a location of your home outside of the safe room (for example, the living room). Allow the cats to look at each other and sniff through the carrier door.
• Any signs of aggression? Keep the visit short and return the new cat to its safe room.
• Repeat this phase 2 to 3 times daily (if possible), until cats appear to be more comfortable with each other.

Phase 4 – Cat Meets Cat

• Let the cats meet at their own pace. If there are no signs of aggression between cats, leave the door to the safe room open a crack. This will allow the new cat to explore and/or your resident cat to visit. Supervision is necessary for the safety of both cats.
• In case of aggression, have a spray bottle filled with water or a towel handy. Always stop serious threats and/or aggression immediately, as a serious fight may damage the potential for successful integration and relationship.
• If over a period of weeks your integration plan is not going well, consider the installation of an inexpensive screen door from a building supply store. The screen door allows the cats to continue to get to know each other by sight and smell, while keeping both parties safe. Each cat can take turns in the screened room.
• A Feliway diffuser may also prove helpful when integration is difficult.

Phase 5 – Integration Complete

• You may notice some occasional hissing, swatting and grouchy behaviour over the next few months (and years). This is normal. Cats are hierarchical by nature and must establish and affirm the pecking order within your household. Plus, much like humans, all cats have the occasional “off” day.

Please note: The 5 phases detailed above offer only approximate timelines. Some integrations may proceed faster or slower and integration is dependent on the personalities of the cats involved. Remember, you know your cat(s) best. Use common sense and patience when integrating a new cat or cats.

How to Introduce a Shy Cat Companion – The Exception to the Rule

If you’ve adopted a shy cat or kitten to provide companionship for your resident cat, a quicker integration may be best. Shy cats are often used to and welcome other feline companionship. They will be very lonely on their own, so we recommend that the integration take place very quickly (1-3 days) unless there are significant problems.

How to Introduce Cats to Dogs

Phase 1 – Cat Smells Dog

• Follow the steps detailed in Phase 1 of the How to Introduce Cats to Cats section above.

Phase 2 – Switch Spots

• If there are no other cats in your home, confine the dog to one room and let the cat begin to explore the rest of your house for one to two hours each day until the cat is familiar and comfortable with the layout of your home.

Phase 3 – Cat Meets Dog

• Bring the dog in on a leash. Once the cat is used to your home, let the cat roam loose in one room. Keep the dog on a leash and have dog treats ready in your pocket. If possible, have another person the cat is familiar with on the other side of the room to reassure and distract the cat from the dog.
• Sit and meet. Keep the dog seated and focused on you as the leader. Try offering the dog a toy. If the dog focuses on or accepts the toy, reward the dog with a treat. If the dog tries to stand and move towards the cat(s), correct the dog slightly with the leash and reward him or her with a treat. If at any point the dog is not responding to your commands or the cat’s stress level appears elevated, remove the dog from the room. Keep repeating this process until the dog is responding to you and either ignoring or accepting the cat(s). This process helps teach the dog that cats are not prey, toys to be chased, or threats.
• Watch. Never leave the dog and cat(s) unsupervised until you are absolutely sure they have built up a mutual, trusting and respectful relationship.
• Make sure kitty has some space for alone time. Even once the cat(s) and dog(s) are comfortable with each other, cats still like having the option to retreat to a space away from the dog. Place a baby gate across the doorway of a room in the house where the cat or cats like to hang out, or buy or build a tall cat tower so they can retreat when needed.

Note: The length of time required to successfully integrate cats with dogs varies depending on the previous experiences of the animals involved. For example, your dog may have had previous encounter with a cat or the cat may have had prior experience with a dog. Often, when the cats and dogs are used to being around the other species, integration can be quicker.

Tips for Kids

To help introduce your new cat to children, we’ve included a little message with some tips from the cats:

Hi there! I’m your new cat and I’d like to tell you a few things:

• Your house is brand new to me, so I am a bit nervous and shy.
• It will take me a few days to feel comfortable, so please be patient.
• Please don’t chase me; I will start to play when I feel more comfortable.
• I will learn about my new house by smelling everything.
• Because I’m new, I might run away from loud voices, noises and fast movements.
• Because I’m a bit nervous, I might hiss; that’s how I say, “I am scared.”
• I need quiet times just like you do, so I might find a hiding spot and take a nap.
• Please put my litter box in a quiet spot and let me use it alone.
• Please remember to pick up all my legs when you carry me or my tummy will hurt.
• I won’t mean to, but since I have claws I might scratch you if we play too much.
• I’m not sure where to sleep yet, so I might try a lot of places before I get comfortable.
• Please pet me gently and don’t pull my tail; I am small and can be hurt easily.
• Make sure you don’t let me outside. I don’t know where I live and I’ll get lost.
• Oh, and one last thing. Please remember to close the door to outside behind you. I’m naturally very curious!

• Adopting a Dog or Puppy

Bringing home your newly adopted rescue dog is super exciting. You are starting a new life journey with your dog, he is now forever part of your family!

The first few days and even weeks can be confusing for you and your rescue puppy. Learning what to expect this first week can help ease your worries.

As a foster family we get to experience the joy of bringing home a new dog several times a year.

What to Expect When Adopting and Bringing Home a Rescue Dog 

You have just adopted your new pup and he is now in his forever home, but your dog does NOT understand that yet. Your dog may have been in a shelter, foster home or bounced from shelter to foster home several times. He is most likely confused, stressed out, and unclear of his future.

Hopefully, you prepared before bringing your new dog home, but now is a good time to review to make sure you didn’t forget anything.

Each experience with each dog is different. Every dog is unique! I’ve learned something new with every new dog we’ve fostered and adopted. I hope my experiences can help you make your dogs transition to his new home as smooth as possible.

Day 1: Bringing Your Adopted Dog Home

Let Your Newly Adopted Dog Decompress

• Before you bring your dog inside your home, take him outside to where you want him to go potty and take him for a long walk.
• The first day your adopted dog comes home should be uneventful. Keep things quiet and calm, as tempting as it may feel, don’t invite all your friends to meet him.
• It’s important to give your new dog space to decompress. Set up an area of your home that he can chill out for a while. A crate with a bed or blankets in the room is a great start. You don’t need to shut the door to the crate, just have it as space for him to retreat if he wants.
• Sit back and observe your new best friend. Let him come to you, if you have kids, don’t allow them to hang on the dog, hug him, put their faces to the dogs face, etc. In other words, explain to your kids they need to give the new dog some space for a little while.
• Learn to read your dogs body language. It will help you bond and understand your dog so much better!
• When we first bring in a new foster dog, she is on a leash next to me, in my home office while I work, or in their crate. I never give a foster dog free roam of our house. I learned my lesson pretty quickly on this… too many potty accidents and personal items chewed upon.

Bringing Home a Shelter Dog and Other Pets

If you have other pets in the home, keep them separated for the first 24 hours. Remember, your new dog is stressed; meeting another dog just ads another layer of stress and can result in a dogfight. This goes for even if your dog is the most friendly dog ever or if the dogs have met before. Bringing another dog into your home is different than a casual meeting and dogs reactive differently when it is in their territory.

Whenever we bring in a new foster dog, they are separated from our dogs for a full 24 hours. The 24-hour rule is actually required by the rescue I work with. I will admit, the first few times we brought in a foster, this was very hard.

It’s so tempting to want to bring the dog in and let everyone play. Our home is an open concept and it’s hard to divide any spaces, but I use a baby gate and a room divider to block off our kitchen. This is where our foster dogs stay the first day in our home.

Your Rescue Dog May or May Not Want to Eat

Don’t worry if your dog doesn’t want to eat the first few days, this is completely normal. Try to feed the same food he was eating in his foster home or shelter, to alleviate any belly aches. You can wean him to a new food next week, but the first week keep things simple. Make sure he is drinking water; you don’t want him to get dehydrated.

This is a little gross but look at his poop for the next few weeks. Even if the shelter or foster home gave him a clean bill of health, sometimes worms and parasites can creep up under time and stress. Any signs of abnormal poop warrants a visit to your vet.

Which reminds me, you should make an appointment to have your vet take a look at your new dog. Again, even if he’s gotten a clean bill of health through a rescue or shelter, I recommend having your own vet take a look at your new dog and give them a copy of his health records.

Your Rescue Dogs First Night

Your new dog is most likely going to be exhausted the first few nights. If at all possible, I recommend having your dog sleep in his crate at night.  A crate will keep them safe and out of trouble when you are sleeping. We put a crate in our bedroom for our new foster dogs to sleep, this helps the dogs feel more comfortable in the crate if they are not already crate trained.

Day 2: Getting Your Dog Comfortable

The second day your dog may want to explore his surrounds more. Every dog is different; so don’t be concerned if your newly adopted dog prefers to hide under the table or in his crate. This is perfectly normal and part of the decompression processes.

But if your dog wants more attention, then give it to him slowly. Do not give your newly adopted dog full access to your home. Keeping his freedom to a minimum will help keep unwanted behaviors at bay.

I know, you look into those puppy eyes and wonder what could he possibly do that would be unwanted! Well, when a dog is stressed and in a new environment, there is a lot of trouble to be found. Potty accidents, chewing, male dogs may mark, trying to claim their territory, and who knows what else!

If you have other pets, you may introduce them now. If it is another dog, make the meeting outside in a neutral area. Take them both for a long walk together before entering the home again. If you have a cat, then I suggest keeping the introduction on the cat’s terms. Using a baby gate to give the cat a space to escape if desired.

Remember, your new dog may have never seen or experienced things you take for granted. Stairs, television, kids, bicycles, etc. can all be strange to a new dog. It’s always interesting to me with every foster dog we bring in, each one has some sort of quirk. A many of our fosters have never been on a structured walk, so when we walked by a big boulder, or a someone riding a bike, the dog would jump back out of fear. It’s important to keep all this in mind when introducing and exposing your dog to new experiences. Always be patient, positive and reassuring. Don’t avoid the things that make him fearful, but slowly show him there is nothing to be afraid of.

Days 3-7: Creating a Routine for Your Adopted Dog

Slowly add activities throughout the first week. Simply going for daily walks to explore the neighborhood is enough. Every dog will be different and each dog will need its own amount of time to adjust to his new home. So learn to read your dog’s body language and take it slow.

If you thought your dog was potty trained but is having accidents in the house, don’t be too alarmed… this is pretty normal. Just go back to basics of potty training. If he is marking in the house, keep your dog on a leash or crated until you can trust him. This could be days, weeks or months.

Create a routine. Dogs and people alike strive on a schedule. Feed your dog twice a day, walk every day, etc.

Don’t allow behaviors just because you feel sorry for your dog. If you allow it now, it makes it more difficult to change in the future. Lay the rules down now. If you don’t want your dog on the couch, never allow him on the couch. If you don’t want your dog to beg at the kitchen table, don’t allow it this week just because he’s new to your home.

Do you need to take a dog training class? Every dog is different. You may get lucky and your dog was already trained in his previous life. But 9 out of 10 times, your dog was surrendered or abandoned because he wasn’t trained.

Licensing your dog in Michigan:

• All licensing is done at the Kalamazoo County Animal Control Shelter at:

  1316 Lamont Ave

  Kalamazoo, MI 49048

  (269) 383-8775

Maintenance Preventative:

Intestinal Parasites –

Your new pet has been tested for intestinal parasites and has been treated if any were found. It is still wise to take a stool sample to your next vet appointment, just to be safe.

Heartworm –

Heartworm disease is transmitted by mosquitos and can be fatal. Heartworms invade the dog’s heart, where it lives and multiplies – causing an enlarged heart and eventually severe lung congestion. We recommend that you keep your puppy or dog on an oral monthly heartworm preventative all year, but at least May thru December. Your dog has received a first dose of this preventative; it will need additional doses each month as prescribed by your vet. Do not fail to get your puppy or adult dog on heartworm prevention!  Heartworm is very common in Southwest Michigan. Once infected, your pet will begin a long, downward spiral in health that will culminate in an early and very painful death.

Fleas and Ticks –

Are external parasites. They are common and continuous problem for dogs, especially during non-winter months. It is much easier to use preventative treatment than to eradicate fleas from your home, dog and yard. Signs of flea infestation include itching, hair loss and skin irritation which can become infected. Serious illness can result. Fleas can also transmit tapeworm, which is an intestinal parasite. Ticks can transmit many diseases, such as Lyme Disease, which causes chronic fatigue, joint pain, and death. We recommend you apply topical flea and tick control each month year round, but at least in the months of April – November.

Please be reasonable in your expectations. Life with you is a different experience for your new companion, so give him/her time to adjust. You’ll soon find out that you’ve made a friend for life. No one will ever greet you with as much enthusiasm or provide you with as much unqualified love and loyalty as your dog will. Be patient, and you will be amply rewarded.